Closer... closer....

I finished the body wiring, complete with split sheathing...

Headlight and turn signal connectors

Keyswitch connectors

The need to vigorously clean the fiberglass in order for tie downs to stick is apparent. I suspect they still may come loose, at which time I will epoxy on some kind of cleat.

Under seat span

Termination point. Connectors are hanging below

Also evident is my desire to wrap the wiring in *something*. There split sheath, two colors of spiral wrap and one braided sleeve in the this picture.

Tail / Stop / Turn wiring

The two tail light units were slight different, one being quite old, supplied with the trike when I bought it. The older one had a screw in it for ground; the newer one was missing the push on terminal for the turn lamp. I used short jumper wires with connectors to work around both issues.

The taillights need a gasket to properly fit and seal, but they meet the 10 foot rule quite well...

I got about 2 more inches of altitude, and thus fuel pump clearance, for the fuel tank. I started the engine several times, and almost immediately, it was running extra lean andshopwing low fuel pressure. I presumed the filter was probably clogged. Since the tank should have been exceptionally clean after applying the POR15 liner, I wondered if the liner had dissolved due to the alcohol content of our modern gasolines. I fumbled around until I found a light source to inspect the inside of the tank. I discovered that I was suffering not from liner dissolution or clogged filter, but rather a dearth of fuel. Some of those tests must have burned VERY rich.

Besides the other fuel tank bracket, you can see where I elected to put the obnoxiously loud airhorn. It was nearly $50, but wow can it be heard.

I installed a couple of Mr Gasket sparkplug wire loom. Because it's chrome, it doesn't show up very well in this photo, but it looks really nice in person.

Relocated fuel filter; it was too close to the axle and the line was too close to the moving clutch parts. I also rerouted the power lead to the fuel pump.

The raised fuel tank comes pretty close to the shock tower, but at least that's the stationary end!










That's all I have pictures for. I also connected the IDM pin of the EDIS module to the tach input on the speedo. I had to adjust the count for 0.5 rotations per signal, but it reads RPM now! I also set a 4000 RPM shift point. At the appointed RPM, the tach bargraph will flash.

I'm almost positive I did more than this, but I think I am too sleepy to remember them just now....